I like sardines. I like them in a salad, with toasted hazelnuts, parmesan shavings, and a lemon-olive oil dressing. I like them in pasta. I like them in omelets. I like them on toast. I like sardines.

And that’s what I say to myself every time I face down yet another sure-to-be-stinky can of sardines, waiting to be opened. The taste is always delicious, but the smell can be a little much.

Tonight, in preparing the salad described above (thanks to Courtney for introducing me to it), I formed a new brand loyalty: Cole’s sardines. Tasty, firm, and delightfully unstinky. I opened the can and was not seized with the urge to hustle the lid straight out to the recycling bin, to pack the leftovers up airtight and immediately. Those leftovers, which I put into a storage container at a leisurely pace, will go on toast for my breakfast tomorrow.

We’ve only bought Cole’s smoked trout once, because we soon found that Bi-Rite sells a whole smoked trout for the same price as Cole’s little tin. But these sardines? These sardines are winners.


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